BEIJING, Feb. 21 (Xinhua) -- Balancing precariously
on a wooden chair, 78-year-old Liu Zhenru carefully wound a cluster of
tomato-sized lanterns around the branches of her jujube tree.
By the chair, a Pekinese and a Charlie hunt dog, with
bells around their necks, were nudging a pair of large red lanterns, which Liu's
children were about to hang over the gate on the eve of the Lunar New Year.
This is Liu's 49th Lunar New Year in her Siheyuan - a
four-walled courtyard home - but next year she could be looking out on the New
Year from floor 18 of a modern apartment building.
Liu is among the dwindling population in Beijing who
still celebrate the Chinese Spring Festival in traditional Siheyuans, as the
gray brick houses with tilted eaves and delicate stone carvings are crushed
under bulldozers in the capital's rush for modernization.
Only one third of Beijing's hutongs, alleyways lined
with Siheyuan, have escaped demolition or part-destruction, according to a
survey by the Beijing Institute of Civil Engineering and Architecture.
A report by the China News Service in 2006 said that
the number of remaining hutongs only numbered around 400, compared to over 3,000
in the 1980s.
Luo Boyan, 80, had lived in a Siheyuan for 60 years
before moving into his new apartment. Now, Spring Festival is nothing more than
a family gathering, he says.
"Years ago, in our old residence, we could smell the
New Year in the air," he recalled, looking into the distance. "We steamed
niangao, a special New Year cake and the aroma would seep out through the
windows and mingle with the smoke of fireworks in the yard to form the smell of
the festival."
"In the yards, children from different families
played together. Their laughter and the sound of fireworks made it difficult to
hear the television, even at maximum volume," he said.
"Living in a Siheyuan was like living in one big
family," said 55-year-old Wu, while juggling two walnuts outside the gate of his
apartment complex. "We didn't have to lock the door when going out. Sometimes we
ran out of salt while cooking dinners. One shout was all it took. Then a pack
come flying through the window."
Those days have now moved firmly into memories. Luo
came to Beijing from Hebei Province as a carpenter when he was just 12. He lived
in Xizhuan Hutong for most of his life until two years ago, when the government
demolished the houses and compensated him with a measly 6,000 yuan for each
square meter.
Now, living alone in a 140-square-meter apartment,
Luo doesn't even know who lives next door.
On sunny days, the lonely grandpa often rides to a
square beside his old residence to bask in the afternoon sun and watch people
strolling with their birdcages and playing chess. "I sometimes come across my
old neighbors there," he said.
To many Beijingers, a Siheyuan is much more than a
roof and four wall.
"It is, to some extent, a life style, which is a
rarity in the expanding 'cement forest' of a modern city," said Zhang Wei, a
30-year-old photographer who grew up in a Siheyuan and is now racing with
bulldozers to record old Siheyuans before they are leveled to the ground.
"Everything is slow, tranquil and harmonious in old
hutongs," he said, "even when you wait and chat outside a public toilet, or walk
drowsily in the empty street carrying a chamber pot before dawn."
"Siheyuans are like the cells of Beijing and hutongs
are the blood. Now that blood is drained and cells are cankering," Zhang
mourned.
Deep in the hutongs there are always stories. Next
door to Liu Zhenru's house is the birthplace of Mei Lanfang, late performing
artist of the Beijing Opera. Houses in the Lanman Hutong were once hotels for
examinees from east China's Jiangxi Province who came to sit the imperial exam
in the Qing Dynasty.
Several alleys west of the hotels lies a two-story
wooden mansion which is the former residence of a patriotic high-ranking
official in the Song Dynasty, who starved himself to death there after the fall
of the dynasty.
"If the houses are razed, the stories will be buried as well," sighed Zhang
Wei.
However, for many residents, who often have to share their courtyard homes
with more and more other families, the poor facilities and cramped conditions of
hutong life mean they are only too willing to move to modern apartments.
Many courtyard homes that line Beijing's hutongs are
ramshackle affairs, with no central heating or bathroom and few other modern
conveniences. Stoves that burn coal or wood are the only source of heating in
most homes, and a trip to the toilet usually requires a dash down the street to
the nearest public convenience.
A 72-year-old woman, Mrs Zhang, has been living in
Xizhuan Hutong for over half a century. Now, she lives with her husband and
granddaughter in a 12-square-meter room. Next to her property, brick houses
built by her neighbors have transformed her formerly spacious yard into what
Zhang describes as a "tunnel".
"Although I have been living here for many years I
hope the place is pulled down as soon as possible," she said.
"I want to spend the Spring Festival in a clean, wide
and bright building. At least we won't need to run down the street to the
toilet," she explained.
Luo Boyan also blamed the privately built shanties
for degrading the standard of living. "In our former residence, the yard used to
be spacious enough to park a car, but now it couldn't hold a wheel chair," he
said.
Chen Jianjun, Vice Director of the office of Beijing
City Planning Committee, claims that the Beijing authorities are trying to
preserve the "ancient flavor" of the capital by restoring or building new
versions of the traditional houses.
"We have marked out 33 areas in the inner city where
traditional houses and alleys will be preserved, accounting for 29 percent of
the 62.5-square-kilometer inner city," Chen said. He added that as the
population density has become three to five times of that in major western
cities like London and New York, residents should be gradually relocated.
To Liu Zhenru, however, the Siheyuan is her treasure.
"I don't feel any inconvenience living here. Beijing will lose its flavor
without the old houses. If someone could have the houses repaired and
refurbished, it would be perfect.
"I'll be going nowhere but here in the courtyard for
the Spring Festival."
By Xinhua Writers Bai Xu, Li Zhihui and Ji Shaoting